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As we all know, life can "get in the way" of true happiness. I invite you to follow my posts as I try to reconnect with nature as often as life allows. Then,
if so inspired, pick up a paddle or pack and join me on an adventure that makes everything else fade away. - scott@scottcoryell.me

Monday, September 17, 2012

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Climbing Trip

Yes, I went down to Arkansas two weekends in a row!  My friend Andreas was unable to go the weekend before and would not be able to go until November, so I thought I'd go down again so he could climb outside for the first time.  Believe me, it was not much of a sacrifice :)  We left early Saturday because I didn't get back from California until 11:30 p.m. Friday.  Unfortunately the whole weekend was rainy so we didn't get much climbing in.  The rock was wet when we got there and my first lead attempt barely got off the ground.  We waited about an hour for the rock to start to dry out and we top roped some stuff a group from St. Louis had set up.  I lead Paul's Redemption and then lead a bit of the route next to it on trad.  Then it started raining again.

We ran into several people we knew from the gym so we all headed into town for a group dinner and then spent the evening hanging out in the shelter.  There wasn't much climbing but we had a great time spending the evening getting to know everyone better!

Cotton Candy (5.6) | Lion Tamer (5.9-) - A1 | Paul's redemption (5.7) - L | Wanted Man (5.6) - L, 2

Sunday we awoke to light rain and fog.  It looked like we would be packing up and heading home.  However, by the time we had finished our oatmeal the sun was trying to break through the clouds (it never did).  We decided to give it a try and headed up to The North Forty.  Mary Ashley wanted to climb her first trad route and I knew just the one...or thought I did.  I lead Flashbacks again but the rock was so wet I didn't like some of the pinches for placing gear...so after a couple of pieces I just kept going.  When I topped out I swear I could hear Andreas exhale.  Mary Ashley said "So, you realize you basically just free soloed that."  I looked over the edge at my runout and agreed with a wry smile.  She topped it and decided it was not a good first trad route so she moved onto Kid's Stuff (5.5).  Andreas and I finished the day topping Private Property on their rope before packing up the wet tent and heading home.  It was a wet weekend, but a good weekend!

Flashbacks (5.7) - L3 | Sundial (5.7+) | Little Manly Man (5.7+) | Private Property (5.10a) - A4

[A = Attempted | L = Lead | # = Note]

Notes:
1. Went right onto Frankenberry again by accident!
2. Climbed 3/4 of the route trad then want back over to Paul's Redemption to use the anchors.
3. Totally ran it out and was accused of free soloing it : )
4. One take at the crux.

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